Are melasma flares a seasonal event?

Can they occur at any time? Are they preventable?

If you’re one of the estimated 5 million people in the United States who has experienced a melasma flare-up, you’ve likely done some digging about why they occur. 

While the exact causes of melasma and other kinds of hyperpigmentation remain a mystery (and can vary widely from individual to individual), heat and exposure to UVA and UVB rays have both been identified as likely culprits. That’s why hyperpigmentation often becomes more apparent in the summertime when it’s harder to avoid direct sunlight and hot temperatures.

But cooler temps don’t necessarily mean melasma flare-ups are less likely to occur (and while we’ll get to what can help soon, we’ll start with what the season’s contributing factors can look like). While melasma may become less visible in the wintertime, it can be harder to remember to take preventative measures like wearing sunscreen every day. On those winter days when the sun doesn’t make you sweat and sitting by a fire feels like just the thing to do after a jaunt in the cold, it can still be challenging to steer clear of environments and conditions that can contribute to hyperpigmentation.

Staying indoors with the thermostat at a moderate temperature might not be the solution either—strong artificial light can also contribute to the darkening of melasma spots. And even if you live in an area where the weather stays moderate year-round, always apply UVA and UVB radiation-blocking sunscreen, and your indoor spaces are naturally lit, it’s still possible to experience melasma flare-ups due to stress, the uninvited guest in virtually everyone’s home during the holiday season. 

Because the skin cells that produce pigment have receptors that can bind with the hormones estrogen and progesterone, hormone levels have been identified as another hyperpigmentation trigger—and those fluctuations don’t hibernate during winter. Estrogen plays a role in the pigment-producing process and can increase certain receptors in the skin that heighten photosensitivity and inflammation. It can also influence the amount of tyrosinase in the body, which is an enzyme involved in the formation of pigment. Still with us? Here’s where the stress component comes full circle: stress stimulates the body to overproduce cortisol, which in turn signals the production of even more estrogen.

This may sound like a long list of bad news if you were hoping for a hyperpigmentation-free winter season—we get it. But we’re here to decrease melasma stigma by increasing conversation about it. And while we hope to normalize a fairly common experience, we also don’t want to leave you hopeless if reducing the appearance of melasma is your goal.

Here are some helpful hints for soothing melasma flare-ups and keeping your skin happy and healthy during the winter months!

1. Take care of your skin; don’t punish it.

Skin is the largest organ in your body and it needs some extra TLC in winter when the air is drier both indoors and outdoors. Make sure to include hydrating products like hyaluronic acid in your skincare routine, along with nourishing ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and vitamin E as well as soothing compounds like aloe, green tea extract, and licorice root. Swap out your lightweight moisturizers and lotions for creams that contain ceramides, which support the skin barrier and prevent dryness and irritation caused by moisture loss. And of course keep a bottle of water close at all times!

It can be tempting to use bleaching agents, we know, and there’s certainly a place in a skincare regimen for a chemical exfoliant like mandelic, glycolic, or azelaic acid to enhance cell turnover. But in my experience overdoing it can irritate your skin and stress it out even more—which might darken melasma patches instead of lightening them.

2. Remember your sunscreen!

It’s an essential part of your routine in the summertime, and that shouldn’t change in winter—the sun shines year-round, after all, and clouds don’t block UVA rays. If sunscreen feels too heavy on your skin, opt for a tinted moisturizer or BB/CC cream with SPF for a lightweight protective base under makeup (or as a one-and-done layer if you like to keep it simple). And even if the winter sun doesn’t make you squint, a hat and sunglasses are always fashionable and never a bad idea.

3. Be conscious of your cookie and cocktail consumption.

We’re absolutely not telling you to refrain from the season's indulgences entirely, but it is worth noting that sugar tends to take center stage during the winter months. When it’s readily available in practically any form you could imagine, it can be hard not to overindulge. Excess sugar intake can lead to inflammation, which can contribute to hyperpigmentation. Alcohol consumption can also interfere with hormone balance by taking priority on the liver’s to-do list, slowing down the normal breakdown of hormones.
Of course, the holidays are a time for frivolity and fun and it’s absolutely up to you to decide how you want to participate in the festivities. If your quest to minimize the appearance of your melasma trumps your desire to partake in Wela’s buñuelos, don’t let your family pressure you into it! But if saying no to all treats and drinks bums you out, go for it and enjoy. The best advice is to develop a strategy for navigating the season in advance, so that you don’t have to make decisions on the spot.

So this winter, keep your skin hydrated with moisturizing products and drink lots of water/electrolytes. Find a seasonally appropriate way to keep SPF in your daily routine. Balance sugar and alcohol intake with leafy green vegetables, citrus fruits, and warming anti-inflammatory spices like turmeric, ginger, and cinnamon. The moral of the story? Manage your variables and don’t stress about the things you can’t control. 

And most importantly of all, ENJOY the season!