Demystifying Melasma

The lowdown on what melasma ACTUALLY IS and what you can do if you have it...

If you’re not familiar with melasma, it is a condition that appears as uneven, pigmented patches flush with skin’s surface. It typically develops symmetrically on the forehead, cheeks, bridge of nose, chin, and can occasionally be seen on the upper lip, neck and forehead. Similar to age spots or freckles, melasma occurs when certain cells called melanocytes become hyperactive. These specific cells produce pigment in the skin to protect the body from radiation and prevent Vitamin D deficiency. 

So, what actually causes melasma? Although it’s common in women, science can’t yet really explain exactly why melasma develops. It’s been linked to certain triggers like oxidative stress, and exposures to variations of light as well as heat. This type of pigmentation is distinct from moles and birthmarks as melasma patches are not raised or bumpy.

It was a year after I started to notice these dark patches develop on my face, and tons of research later, that I came to learn what this type of hyperpigmentation is and its causes. You can read more about my journey and How I Found Out my Uneven Skin Tone was Actually Melasma here. Today my intent is to demystify melasma and share my findings with you for a better understanding of the condition.

Now back to the causes, the most noted potential origin is related to hormone fluctuations. This is why melasma is often seen in pregnant women. However, this condition isn’t exclusive to women as 10% of people that develop melasma patches are male. Melanocytes can also cause uneven pigmentation when a person starts or starts using birth control pills, or is undergoing hormone replacement therapy. 

Genetics and heritage can also play an important role in development. People with deeper skin tones and women of Latin/Hispanic, North African, African-American, Asian, Indian, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean descent are more likely to experience melasma since their melanocyte cells are naturally more active.

Once melasma patches appear, they can become darker overtime with sun exposure and unexpected heat sources like blow dryers, saunas, steam rooms, and even the blue light glow radiating from your screens. 

How is melasma diagnosed?

If you fit the criteria above, your chances of developing melasma are probably higher than others. This predisposition doesn’t mean melasma patches will certainly appear, however, it can be even more heightened in today’s world of toxins - from diet and environment to the products we use every day.

When it comes to diagnosing melasma, it’s actually pretty straightforward. Usually, you’ll be able to tell just by looking at your skin. If you’re unsure, dermatologists are able to detect this condition using a tool called Wood’s Lamp that uses a special light to determine how deep the pigmentation is and if there is any bacteria present. Melasma is NOT a bacterial infection and is also not an indicator of any other underlying conditions.

In some cases, dermatologists will perform a skin biopsy to rule out the possibility of other skin conditions.

So, I have melasma. Now what can I do?

While melasma can be frustrating, it poses no health risks and often fades with time as hormones shift and balance. If you don’t want to wait for it to resolve itself and are looking to proactively manage your condition, there are a few effective methods that can help. Some are rooted in the idea that melasma is a “problem” to be fixed or eradicated with harsh products containing hydroquinone. 

Sound intimidating? Don’t worry, there are far more gentle practices that approach melasma with care. Let’s face it, perfection is unattainable, and attacking a condition that is neither harmful or debilitating doesn’t guarantee the dark spots will disappear. In fact, it could potentially aggravate your skin causing additional stress.

There are a myriad of techniques and routines for managing melasma. No one single method has been proven to reduce the appearance of uneven pigmentation alone, so we suggest treating it from all angles.

Looking to encourage a more even skin tone? Here’s a few simple steps you can take:

1. Introduce a nutritional diet that supports liver detox 

2. Try to minimize inflammation - eat leafy greens and reach for antioxidants

3. Use SPF daily - even inside the house or on a cloudy day 

4. Wear a wide brim hat when you’re out in the sun, preferably with SPF 

5. Use products with ingredients like Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Kojic Acid, Alzeic Acid and Alpha – Arbutin 

6. Find healthy ways to manage stress – hormonal shifts from oxidative stress can make it worse

What if melasma were approached with kindness and acceptance instead? What if rather than viewing it as a problem to be solved, we considered it an opportunity for self-love and gratitude? There is nothing to be ashamed of when it comes to your skin. Melasma is not often talked about, but it is a common condition that can be managed with positive, self-loving practices . The more we share about our experiences with kindness, the more informed we can be when it comes to our skin and wellness journey!