I Got the Cosmelan MD, Here's How It Went

My experience on how the notorious peel worked to get rid of my deep pigmentation.

I’ve been dealing with melasma since I turned 30. A year later I got engaged and I was devastated when it “wouldn’t come off” in time for me to walk down the aisle. Five years later and I still have it. I’ve tried tons of methods to remedy my melasma, from microneedling to dietary changes to various topical creams and SPF formulations—they’ve all helped, but it wasn't enough. While I had promised myself I wouldn’t turn to hydroquinone because of its harmful effects, I decided to give Cosmelan MD a chance since its protocol only requires about two weeks of use at a time.

For this I turned to Beverly Hills based Celebrity Medical Aesthetician, Celeste Rodrigues. She first explained to me the difference between Cosmelan and Cosmelan MD, and that is the ingredients. Regular Cosmelan contains Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid, Phytic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Arbutine, and Titanium Dioxide, while Cosmelan MD has all those same ingredients but with added hydroquinone and retinol.

But let’s back up a bit—you might be wondering what the Cosmelan MD even is. For those of you who aren’t familiar, it’s an intense peel that requires in-office treatments combined with at-home applications. It’s considered one of the leading professional depigmentation methods aimed to reduce dark spots from melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. The peel can cost upwards of $1,200, so it’s important that you get the real product if you’re considering this method. The genuine product is manufactured in Spain and if you notice the product is more brown than beige, that’s a good indication that it was manufactured elsewhere.

The treatment starts by going into an office for the initial application of the peel. A professional, such as Celeste in my case, first prepped my skin by cleaning it with alcohol, then applied a thick layer of the product all over my face. It felt cool and wet at first, but this is just the start of the commitment—it eventually dries out throughout the day and it’s required to leave on for 8 hours for maximum effectiveness. The peel looks like crunchy peanut butter when applied, so yes, you’ll be walking around looking like a snack. If you’re planning on getting the peel, I would recommend getting it done first thing in the morning then going home and taking it easy for most of the day. Maybe plan to watch some movies, read a book, or work from home as the product is very noticeable and you’re not going to want to be out and about. 

The peel also comes with an at-home protocol that consists of the following three products: 

1. MELAN RECOVERY – this is a soothing and restoring balm that helps relieve redness.

2. MELAN 130+ PIGMENT CONTROL – a really high protection tinted SPF. This filters UVA, UVB, HEV (blue/violet light known as High Energy Visible light) and IR (Infrared rays) for the ultimate in sun protection. 

3. COSMELAN 2 – this product continuously mitigates spots and regulates the overproduction of melanin, preventing their reappearance in the long term. It also improves skin texture, enhances skin brightness, and unifies the overall skin tone.

After 8 hours, I finally washed my face. The water activates the peel, so when I did this my face began to feel quite hot, but that’s normal and expected. Once I washed it off, I applied the Melan Recovery ointment. It’s recommended that you only use the products that come with the peel since other products with active ingredients can irritate the skin even more. However, for things like facial wash, a gentle gel or cream cleanser can be used. 

The next day I woke up looking a bit red, but there was no discomfort after showering first thing in the morning. I applied the Melan 130+ Pigment Control—the consistency of this product is a bit thick and almost feels like it has a grainy texture, but the tint is helpful for reducing redness in the skin’s appearance. Starting day 1 and for the following 12 days, you are supposed to keep your face as protected from the sun as possible. This is a very important regime to follow, as sun exposure can reverse what the peel is intended to do and your skin can hyperpigment even more.  On the third day, there was visible inflammation and I began to feel some tightness in the cheek and mouth area. My skin also began to flake off at this time. 

After the third day, you begin to add the Cosmelan 2 at night before bed onto clean skin. While it stings upon contact, the Melan Recovery is applied on top and helps reduce the burning sensation. The Cosmelan 2 is what keeps you peeling, so if you want to go longer, you continue applying it. If you want to reduce the peeling time, you discontinue the use of the Cosmelan 2. I used it for about eight days. 

I am going to be quite honest: by day 4, I was uncomfortable, my face felt tight, hot, and itchy and all in all, I was over it—but I stuck with the plan and saw amazing results by day 10. My face overall looked bright and the melasma patches were visibly lighter. I was so impressed by the results—nothing else I’d tried before had worked so quickly. 

The Cosmelan MD has two parts: the initial peel with the at-home protocol, then a second peel with at-home protocol a month later. It’s an almost identical process the second time, but since you’re using product from the initial batch, there may not be enough to cover your entire face, making round two more of a spot treatment. I didn’t have time to go back a month later since I was traveling over the summer to locations where there would be intense sun exposure, so instead I waited six months until my second round. 

Overall this is the most effective product and process I have tried for the treatment of my melasma hyperpigmentation and it will probably be the only thing I will try that contains hydroquinone, since I’d rather choose products with clean ingredients to use over the long term. I would say that the Cosmelan MD is a quick fix when you’re looking to see drastic results. Remember that there are many daily habits that can help diminish melasma over time as well!